NEW PUPPY SHOPPING LIST
SUPPLIES FOR PUPPY
PREPARING FOR YOUR PUPPY
Many new puppy owners ask us what they should get before (and after) they get their puppy.
Below you will find a quick checklist, and also a Shopping List of specific products and links to Amazon.
Food
Your puppy will be eating puppy food (AKA kibble) - and we will post this info via an informational email, and you will receive a ziplock bag of some to get you started. Links to the food are below.
Quick checklist:
Crate or several crates for different rooms
Exercise pen (see links below)
Fleece blankets or old towels (do not buy a dog bed yet)
Leash and/or harness
Collar (puppy comes with one)
Dog food
ID Tags
Toys & training treats
Teething toys
Puppy Shampoo
Nail trimmers or file (or plan on visiting the vet or groomer often)
Ear Wash with a drying agent in it (floppy eared dogs get infections easily!)
Dog Toothbrush & Toothpaste
Pooper Scooper
Food bowls
Car seat dog cover or hammock
Nature's Miracle cleanup spray, paper towels
Poop bags
Flea & tick preventatives
Canned pumpkin, plain greek yogurt, and plain peanut butter - for crate training and boredom buster with Kongs!
Things to avoid:
Rawhide (only under close supervision).
Puppies are infamous for eating socks and other small undergarments - be careful! Squeakers and stuffing and rope toys should all be carefully monitored.
Grapes, chocolate, alcohol, and cannabis
Do not buy a dog bed; wait until the puppy is done teething and house trained - save the $ ;-) and buy the fleece blankets below or use old towels. Some have ignored my advice and they love to send me pics of their destroyed dog bed with the caption, "we should've listened to you." ;-) Buy what we use for the pups, the fleece blankies in the below links, easy to clean! - amzn.to/2Kol6o6
Below you will find a quick checklist, and also a Shopping List of specific products and links to Amazon.
Food
Your puppy will be eating puppy food (AKA kibble) - and we will post this info via an informational email, and you will receive a ziplock bag of some to get you started. Links to the food are below.
Quick checklist:
Crate or several crates for different rooms
Exercise pen (see links below)
Fleece blankets or old towels (do not buy a dog bed yet)
Leash and/or harness
Collar (puppy comes with one)
Dog food
ID Tags
Toys & training treats
Teething toys
Puppy Shampoo
Nail trimmers or file (or plan on visiting the vet or groomer often)
Ear Wash with a drying agent in it (floppy eared dogs get infections easily!)
Dog Toothbrush & Toothpaste
Pooper Scooper
Food bowls
Car seat dog cover or hammock
Nature's Miracle cleanup spray, paper towels
Poop bags
Flea & tick preventatives
Canned pumpkin, plain greek yogurt, and plain peanut butter - for crate training and boredom buster with Kongs!
Things to avoid:
Rawhide (only under close supervision).
Puppies are infamous for eating socks and other small undergarments - be careful! Squeakers and stuffing and rope toys should all be carefully monitored.
Grapes, chocolate, alcohol, and cannabis
Do not buy a dog bed; wait until the puppy is done teething and house trained - save the $ ;-) and buy the fleece blankets below or use old towels. Some have ignored my advice and they love to send me pics of their destroyed dog bed with the caption, "we should've listened to you." ;-) Buy what we use for the pups, the fleece blankies in the below links, easy to clean! - amzn.to/2Kol6o6
Puppy Products - Amazon Links
We do receive an affiliate fee direct from Amazon (it is not charged to you, you don't see it, your cost of the product doesn't change whether you use our links or not), if items are purchased within 24 hours of being put into your cart. If you put it in your cart, and wait after a day or more to order it, we do not receive an affiliate fee for it. It doesn't add up to much, but we appreciate it if you use them and checkout within 24 hours of putting items in your cart - please reward us for our hard website work ;-) But, please don't hesitate to check around on pricing - the small items are not much differences I'm sure, but the crates might matter. Take a look at Chewy.com, as they are often competitive.
FOOD
Your puppy will be eating one of the below puppy foods - these are popular brands amongst breeders. You should keep your new pup on the same kind provided by the breeder, for at least a couple of months so that they don't get an upset tummy from being switched. Do not switch food on your puppy dog without doing so very slowly, gradually. We are happy to answer any questions on this. If you have a mini sized dog, your puppy can be switched to adult food around 8 months of age. If you have a medium or standard sized, you will want to switch earlier, around 6 months.
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Hills Small Bites Puppy
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As of November 2018, we have changed our adults' food to RAW instead of kibble due to recalls and vet suggestions that grain free is not good for the heart. We are now feeding our adults the raw Stella & Chewy brand, and we add white or brown rice and/or oats for grains. We also put Missing Link Skin and Coat supplement on their food (especially in the winter), as well as Purina fortiflora (both products are below on the list). In the winter, we sometimes add a little coconut oil. If there are changes going on, like some travel or a lot of guests over, we like to add some canned pumpkin as not only a treat but to help keep poop firm in case they get nervous / soft poo for some reason.
For puppies, keep it simple until potty trained consistently.
For puppies, keep it simple until potty trained consistently.
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This is the PUPPY one.
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This is the adult one.
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Stella & Chewy option
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SUPPLEMENTS
We put Purina fortiflora supplement on the puppies' food to help digestion and keep firm stool. In the winter, we add Missing Link Skin and Coat to our adults' food to help them with the winter itches. Coconut oil is another favorite to add. Pumpkin is a great stomach settler and adds fiber. I recommend it on your puppy's food the first couple of weeks of coming to you to help keep stool firm. Like us, when they are anxious, their tummy might be off. You can use it whenever though - you can also pack it into a Kong for a treat.
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CRATES and EX PENS
Crates on Chewy.com
You will find crates on Amazon or Chewy. We like the Petmate Navigator (and now Compass model too which is a few dollars less than the Navigators) brand the best. Why these? -- The door opens both ways and comes off easily (this is really, really handy when training and using a pen with crate inside). They are also the best looking in a field of uglies. They also come with a 'grow with me' divider.
NOTE: We have heard from owners using metal crates that legs and teeth have been broken! We prefer the hard plastic kennel crates over the metal wire ones that puppies can get their legs and teeth stuck in. There are some occasions that we will use a metal crate if we feel a pup is better off (more comfortable) in one for when we do extended training, but we would not put an anxious or upset pup in a metal one, ever.
If you are interested in more about the how and why of crate training, take a look at our Crate Training page (you might also want to get an exercise pen as is shown on this page): http://www.rivervalleydoodles.com/crate-training-your-puppy.html
Depending on size of your dog - Large (medium to standards), Intermediate (minis and petites), or Medium (petites)
You will find crates on Amazon or Chewy. We like the Petmate Navigator (and now Compass model too which is a few dollars less than the Navigators) brand the best. Why these? -- The door opens both ways and comes off easily (this is really, really handy when training and using a pen with crate inside). They are also the best looking in a field of uglies. They also come with a 'grow with me' divider.
NOTE: We have heard from owners using metal crates that legs and teeth have been broken! We prefer the hard plastic kennel crates over the metal wire ones that puppies can get their legs and teeth stuck in. There are some occasions that we will use a metal crate if we feel a pup is better off (more comfortable) in one for when we do extended training, but we would not put an anxious or upset pup in a metal one, ever.
If you are interested in more about the how and why of crate training, take a look at our Crate Training page (you might also want to get an exercise pen as is shown on this page): http://www.rivervalleydoodles.com/crate-training-your-puppy.html
Depending on size of your dog - Large (medium to standards), Intermediate (minis and petites), or Medium (petites)
PLEASE NOTE: some crates come with a 'grow with me' divider and some do not- check descriptions! The Petmate Navigators DO come with a divider, and the doors open both ways and comes off - that is why we like them.
Petmate Navigators have the divider.... - UPDATE 2022: it is almost impossible to find Navigators now- so check out the COMPASS MODELS (all made by Petmate)
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This crate, the 28" one (medium), says it is rated for 20 to 30 lbs. We have found that it is pushing it for a 30lb dog - size up if you have the room space:
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This is the 32" one (intermediate) size, rated for 30 to 50 lbs. {sometimes the pricing on this size is wacky compared to the other sizes and I don't know why.... when in doubt, go bigger because they all come with a divider to make smaller}
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This is the 36" one (large), rated for 50 to 70 lbs.
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This is the 40", (xl), rated for 70 to 90 lbs...... if you have a medium sized dog, you can get this one and be sure that they will have plenty of space when they are older to sprawl out. You will need to use the divider for awhile. (check description to make sure it comes with the divider - if not, buy the Navigator not the Compass).
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These metal crates, I am not a fan of. These are not that safe, BUT they do easily fold up and the tray on the bottom easily comes out for cleaning. If you put a blanket over it, the pup would appreciate that. Be careful with these, as legs and teeth can get caught and broken.
An exercise pen to put your puppy in - keep your sanity and get one or two or three. You can use them indoors but also outdoors and they are very portable. They come in different heights - try not to get one too tall that you can't hop over it and not too short that the puppy will jump out in just a few weeks of growth. I use the 24" and 32" and 36" ones (prefer the 24" and 32" best for small puppies, but bigger ones or climbers might need higher). These are not ideal solutions as they can also trap legs and teeth, but not as much as the metal crates can. I have yet to find a reasonably priced safer alternative to these though. There is a company, Clearly Loved Pets, that sells beautiful, plexiglass pens, but they are quite pricey (like, think $400+). It is about impossible for a pup to climb out of though (Clearly Loved Pets) if right sized.
FLOOR PROTECTION - To help protect our wood floors, we buy from Home Depot or Lowe's linoleum (vinyl? - whatever the material is called, you know what I mean - see the below pics) remnants (6' x 8') that are about $30. We put the pen/puppy setup on top of this.
AKA, Puppy apartment, puppy jail....;-)
AKA, Puppy apartment, puppy jail....;-)
Puppy pen on top of linoleum piece - put the crate and puppy stuff in the pen and it becomes the "puppy apartment" (or aka puppy jail, as one of my friends with human kids likes to call her "kid jail" that is a playpen). This below picture is my living room on picking day. Please also notice that the guests are sitting on the floor. We do require that when handling the puppies. New owners that hold their little puppy on the couch, have ended up with broken legs, and several have had to be amputated.
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There are all sorts of gates - here are a few. Measure and try to find one tall enough that your dood won't jump over it.
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Here is a small Playpen that might be of interest/helpful, depending on your home setup. 24" is not that tall, so this would be for a small puppy. In regards to the "square" set up - I have seen some puppies use the corners to climb up and out of these. Some pups are climbers and some are not. I can't guess which will turn into climbers for you ;-) The square edging gives them stable leverage to climb like a ladder, whereas the circular ex pen above is harder to get leverage on to climb.
We do not use dog beds for the puppies. Puppies will destroy these while they are teething and also they like to pee on cushy things (so don't let them on your couch until you are 100% sure they are potty trained - and that they won't jump off and break a leg). We use these fleece blankies in the crates and on the floor. They are easy to toss in the wash; much easier than jamming in a dog bed. Trust us - don't buy a bed until your puppy is older! We will give you a fleece blanket that has littermate smell on it to go home with. Some of the ones listed on Amazon are tiny - we like the 50 x 60 size.
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what we use:
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Super cute:
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If you are flying in and need a basic carrier that is airline approved.... -- if you buy from the airline, you'll spend more $$.
These Kurgo dog car seats and harness/seat belt we heard about from one of our owners - who mentioned it on the private Facebook group we have, and next thing we know, "everyone" is getting them. You have to buy the seat AND the harness - so both pieces below. My mom uses it for her training puppies to teach them to sit and enjoy the ride and they LOVE it.
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A cheap seatbelt that goes in the current seatbelt receptacle you would have....these are okay for emergencies and easy carry, but no idea how well they work in an accident. At the least, it'll keep your dog from wandering all over the car and being distracting.
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Please keep in mind that no solid studies have been done on dogs and dog seat belts or restraints of any kind. Some people say the safest is to strap down a crate and put your dog in that for the trip. I don't know the best options so we all do what we must, but most importantly, be very careful driving while you dog is in the car with you! At the very least, get a dog seat belt strap.
TREATS and fav TOYS
Best high reward treat? Boil chicken or steak, and cut into little pieces. But, below are some other options.
What makes a good training treat? Well, preferable something small, that they can eat fast so you don't have to wait for them to chew to go on to the next training command. Also, something that isn't messy on your hands (no idea why people use hot dogs besides pups do like them and they are smelly aka high reward to them).
What makes a good training treat? Well, preferable something small, that they can eat fast so you don't have to wait for them to chew to go on to the next training command. Also, something that isn't messy on your hands (no idea why people use hot dogs besides pups do like them and they are smelly aka high reward to them).
These Pupford ones are small, easy/quick to eat for training time, and not messy. The pups all seem to like them too. Part of training includes good timing and you need something that is quick for them to chew up and swallow or you'll be waiting forever for them to finish chomping on one treat and it slows training down.
PLEASE NOTE: these dry meat treats below are much nicer for your hands than using the boiled chicken or filet - it is a sloppy mess to use a baggie of cooked meat. These are dry, usually through a freeze dried or jerky style process. BUT! While you are training, the "chew" time of waiting while giving the treats, is easier using boiled chicken or cheese - and many pups like the smelly stuff as value as a higher reward.
These below are liver pieces by Stewart... I know gross sounding, but many trainers (most?) will tell you to splurge for these - they are much healthier than using bits of hot dog for a training session when you are feeding a lot of treats.
These Zuke's are favorites by RVD owners. I use them but my favorite go to is still little pieces of boiled steak in a plastic baggie in my pocket or training bag.
Bully sticks are loved by all the dogs. You should always supervise the chewing of these - and start with allowing only a few minutes at a time to not disrupt puppy's belly. They also take some time for them to chew on so it helps keep your pup occupied while you try to live a life.
We also take the caps and labels off empty water bottles and give the pups the bottles – talk about a cheap toy that they go bonkers for! Careful though to make sure little pieces are not chewed off. Some people also like to give paper towel rolls (empty) to chew/entertain themselves with but obviously this is something you'll have to clean up.
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These Busy Buddy toys are puzzles that are great to keep your pup busy and clean teeth! Get the refills too!
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Busy Buddy refill treats
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Kongs - don't buy Kongs that are too small because your puppy could swallow it - Large is good for most! Use these to feed your puppy their kibble (ie, their puppy food), and or fill with peanut butter or plain greek yogurt (freeze to last longer) - great reward or time buster in the crate!
I suggest ordering 3 to 4. Feed your puppy her kibble in it, put peanut butter in another when you leave, and have one in the freezer full of pumpkin or plain yogurt for backup. They wash in the dishwasher. Usually dogs love these, but if you have one that does it, try soaking the kibble until it is soft and then packing it into one of these. Toss in the crate every time you leave or feed them.
I suggest ordering 3 to 4. Feed your puppy her kibble in it, put peanut butter in another when you leave, and have one in the freezer full of pumpkin or plain yogurt for backup. They wash in the dishwasher. Usually dogs love these, but if you have one that does it, try soaking the kibble until it is soft and then packing it into one of these. Toss in the crate every time you leave or feed them.
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SNUFFLE MAT! Okay, these are SUPER FUN for the pups. They also serve multiple purposes. The game is to hide the puppy food kibble in the interactive pieces on the Snuffle Mat - similar to putting the food in the Kong to keep them occupied. This will also help those that eat their food too fast. Really, a blast! It is also a great way to bond with your puppy - you will show him where to start to find the kibble hidden and help him 'snuffle'. Lastly, when you get into Intermediate and Advanced training, you will need a "mat" to tell the dog "go to your mat" whenever company is coming or just for fun, or just to get some space. These are positively associated with food and so it won't feel like punishment for you to tell them "go to your mat".
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Here is another fun play mat to keep your puppy entertained:
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This is a treat 'puzzle toy'. Puppies LOVE it! You put some delicious high reward treats in it, shake it a bit, and give to your pup to roll around until the treats start to drop out. It will keep your pup busy for a little bit. Give to him before you leave the house! You must manage your puppy's time and energy or they will drive you nuts and possibly even keep you up all night.
We have these Himalyan Dog Chew "bones" (really yak cheese) on monthly subscription - the adult dogs love them! You can put peanut butter on them, or store them in your dog food container to get a good smell on them.
Your vet will tell you to get these Greenies, which supposedly help clean your dog's teeth. We have one dog that likes to swallow these whole, and luckily the formula is easily digestible. As with all hard things, watch your dog when they are chewing on these and take it away if it looks like they are going to swallow large pieces.
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Snuggle Pet Puppy - has a heartbeat and has been invaluable for the first couple of weeks of bring your puppy to new home - helps them sleep at night so they don't feel 'alone'. THIS MIGHT BE A LIFESAVER TOY FOR YOUR SANITY - it might be the only thing that helps your puppy sleep at night (some puppies don't care for it, but most love it).
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Extra heat packs for the Snuggle Pet Puppy - these, in my opinion, are just bonus, but not necessary.
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We get a kick out of how the Skunk toys are always the puppies' favorite!
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They also love things that make crinkle noises....here is a long cow toy with crinkly in it that they will love! You probably won't remember this, but don't put it in the dryer after washing. I have learned that it ruins the crinkle.
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A puppy loses over 20 baby teeth & grows in over 40 adult teeth from the ages of 4 months to 9 months. That's a lot of movement in the mouth! This teething bundle will help. They like things hard that make noise when it bops on the floor, and these are it. They especially like to do it while you are trying to take a nap. Bang, bang, bang.
Dragons are always favorites. And octopus. No idea why LOL - if they could only explain to me their choices....
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I think they love the giraffe because it has some fluffy fur on it - definitely another favorite of the pups. You can also wet and freeze the soft toys to help ease gum pain.
These help with teething and chewers love them. |
Teach fetch to your little puppy by sitting down on the floor....as your pup grows up, you'll want a ChuckIt thrower to help your arm.... and a ton of tennis balls, of course.
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It is hard to get puppies to not eat sticks, so this helps (it is fake stick, AKA faux stick)...
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LEASHES and COLLARS
There are a ton of fun options, so we will include some basics here. Use basic for puppyhood and then spend on the fun fancy stuff once they are done teething!
Basic 6' leash to get started with. This is the same brand of puppy collars that we use and has a lifetime guarantee, even on chewed up items! Lupine is a great brand - and the collar brand your puppy will go home with. Start with a lightweight leash- not a full size 1" one. This is 1/2". If you buy the 1" one and you are getting a puppy that is under 12 weeks old, it will be too heavy/big for them.
These harnesses are to get your puppy started - they are not for training .... but they are nice the first few months as they don't pull on the neck and get them used to some kind of restraint. The Easy Walk harnesses below are all that we use for our adults and for training.
Easy Walk harness - hands down our favorite way to walk the dogs. Safe, clips in the front, and helps with pulling. Read the directions - the grey goes on the belly. THESE ARE WHAT WE USE!
These ones have a clip in the front on the chest, a clip on the back/shoulders, and a handle by the shoulders -- I have just recently been trying these ones out, and I like them quite a bit so far, but I don't have pullers.
Still like Easy Walk (above) best!
Still like Easy Walk (above) best!
Training leash long - 30' for teaching "off leash" and having fun at the park while you are on a blanket
Clip these on your leash - your neighbors will be thankful.
If you have sidewalks with salt in the winter... boots are absolutely necessary to protect paws from being burnt/shredded. If you live in the city and don't have boots on your dog in the winter, you most certainly will get a well meaning lecture from some neighbor or passerby.
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There are more boot ideas below. I suggest the rubber Pawz first as they are inexpensive and easy. These are more hardy for hiking.
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FLEA TICK PREVENTATIVE
Depending on where you live, and how many fleas or ticks there are, you might want to do either the collar or the topical...and some people need to do both if they live in a high tick area. Please be careful with the topical as it can sometimes burn - most it doesn't bother, but some do not like it at all on their skin. If you end up with a flea or tick problem, bathe your pup in Dawn dish soap as it is stunning to them (paralyzes them so you can pick them off) and deterrent (not a 100% guarantee but it does help get them off and also deter the beasties).
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Seresto flea collar - Large - they are usually the same price (sizes), so buy the Large and just use the adjusting aspect and trim it - that way if you have a growing puppy, you don't end up having to buy two when the pup grows out of a small.
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Seresto flea collar - Small (under 18lbs) --- for some reason, I can only find it in a 2 pack
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Here is the topical (monthly) ....if you are in a high tick prevalent area, you might want to do both the collar and this topical. Do not use Frontline (unless puppy has mites, then use Frontline for mites) - that only covers AFTER they bite - you want to try to prevent the bite - the bite is what transmits Lyme and other diseases.
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BATHING and GROOMING SUPPLIES
Goldendoodle and Sheepadoodle coats are high maintenance and need visits to a groomer (in our opinion), they are also what we call “magic coats” – if they get muddy and you let it dry, it’ll come right off. But they still need to visit a groomer to get matts combed or shaved out and sometimes a doodle likes a short coat because they can get hot.
Nature's Miracle - great shampoo!
But, Clayton Christensen has the BEST shampoo (and grooming products in general, but pricey)
Ear Cleanser with drying agent - it is important to use the kind that has a drying agent in it. Some of the all natural stuff just makes the pups' ears smell good but doesn't keep it dry. Wetness creates bacteria and yeast, which cause ear infections. Always use this after swimming or a bath! I cannot stress the importance of reading this part - most floppy eared dogs will suffer from an ear infection (or many) throughout their lives. Using this product will save you $$ at the vet because every time you go they charge an exam and the meds.
Nature's Miracle - Puppy Paw wipes
Many new owners are surprised that their groomer needs to shave their doodle down because they did not get to the bottom of the coat and the dog is one big matt. Not good and very uncomfortable. MATS – The most common mistake made when grooming a Doodle or Poodle is to brush over the top but not get in underneath and close to the skin. It can be quite shocking to discover that although your dog looks beautiful ‘on top,’ underneath there is a whole nest of matting you haven’t even noticed or you think isn’t that bad then you take them into the groomers for the first time and the groomer says… “Sorry, we had no choice but to shave them to the skin because they had mats“. Yep, so Goodbye cute Teddy Bear look for at least the next 2 months. Groomers already spend a good 2-4 hours on a regular groom and they will refuse to comb out mats by hand…. this is a huge job. So give your groomer a break and help them out. If you want a longer fluff coat, you HAVE to keep on top of it yourself by using a dematting comb. You can comb out their ears, tails, hips, bodies and feet etc…once a week and save them from being shaved totally pink naked. All of the below have been recommended by our owners - but it is also a personal preference. Start with the first one, the Safari one, and before spending money on another, see if you like it and if it is effective. P.S. it is easier to brush your puppy if he is sleeping!
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Basic Slicker Brush
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This is for long hair - so if you need to get some mats out, you'll need this kind of metal rotating pin comb for Poodles.
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Cowboy Magic is amazing to work out mats - smells good too! Many of our doodle owners have said this product has saved their dood from being naked shaved. I used to use it on my horse's tail, but discovered it was good on the doodles as well! You can even put it in your kids' hair for gnarls.
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Doggie toothbrush - start them young so that they get used to you brushing their teeth! They will loose all their baby teeth anyway, but it helps to get them used to being brushed.
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Dog toothpaste - brushing won't be too annoying to them when the toothpaste is poultry flavored!
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Save your wood floors and keep their nails cut often. The more frequently that you do it, the shorter their "quicks" will get and the easier it will be to do. If you are uncomfortable doing this (be careful, you can cut a nerve!), use your Groomer instead.
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I don't know why vets give out those dumb big plastic cones - no one likes them. The dogs hate them and they jam them into the back of your legs. These inflatable ones are huge hits and you should have it on hand in case something happens and it is needed asap.
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Instead of the cone of shame, our owners say these spay/neuter recovery suits are sooo much nicer, and more manageable than a big stupid cone banging against everything, including the backs of your legs.
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These "lion" cones are a big hit as well.
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CLEANING
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Nature's Miracle Cleaner Spray - sorry but you will need this! Look around for best pricing!
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This is the disinfectant kind that Nature's Miracle carries - if you are worried about any "germs" like parasites.
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Do what I do, buy a couple of spray bottles and a gallon size to refill.
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Buy in Giant Size ;-) - Paper Towels! -- my family makes fun of me because I will only use Bounty, the "good" paper towels - and I have a standing subscription order through Target for them to be delivered to my door. The worst is using cheap paper towels and well, getting literal crap under your nails ;-)
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I was told this Presto Amazon brand paper toweling was comparable to Bounty... not sure! I don't like cheap paper towels. Worst thing ever is poop on my hand! ;-)
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BOOKS
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By a YouTube star that people rave about for his great enthusiasm and understanding of dog language....-- one of our pup owners said watching the videos in conjunction with reading the book was the BEST way to learn! It is important to see body language for training. He is a bit dorky, but sweet and enthusiastic!
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Another great Positive based training book that reviews mostly puppy training.
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Great book by Ian Dunbar and Positively training your puppy - Chapter 7 is Bite Inhibition, you will need this ;-)
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Goldendoodles - if you look close enough, you will find us in here!
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One of our puppy owners did this ebook of one of our pups, Arthur - so shameless plug for them ;-)
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MISCELLANEOUS
The furbo is cute, but a splurge.
MUD - will drive you crazy!
These mats are a saver - we line our patio and garage doors with these to get most of it off before they come in. We also use them in our vehicles. You can also put it in your dog's crate. These things are GREAT! The poofy fabric helps rub off dirt, and the fabric is holds a ton of water.
Medium size is not that big but handy. Large Size is normal doormat size (...this is the size I get).
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This Soggy Doggy paw wiper is great for wet paws before coming into the house - and also wipes up the belly which gets quite dirty on walks too. Keep it at the door! Doodle coats are fun, but messy!
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Bone Soggy doormat - or you can use under food/water bowls
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Backseat cover. Thank me later. ;-) There are many kinds of these.
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POOP
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Because poop happens! Never be caught with just one either.
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We use this for our yard - far better than bending over!
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IMPORTANT~
PINE OR PAPER LITTER PELLETS - some of the puppies are litter trained. Paper or Pine/soft wood pellets is what they will use. If you have allergy concerns, and you're allergic to hay, you might want to skip using the Pine. There are also PAPER pellets available to use. The pro to pine/softwood is they easily transfer the smell of outdoor grass for outdoor potty training. The con is some don't like the dust and some are allergic to it. Forget what you traditionally think about litter training. I used to be against it, thinking then the pups have to learn outside and it would be harder. But it is not. Puppies can potty every 10 minutes (feel like it anyway). Are you going to run your puppy out that often? They are a dream come true - especially for apartment dwellers or those that are being really careful and keeping their puppy off the sidewalks for the first month or so. This will also help you potty train outside - take the box outside when you're ready, or a pile of pellets. -- We use a 28qt 'under bed storage' that is about 5 1/2" tall - don't get one too tall or little pupper can't jump into it. Let them pee in it for a couple of days, and scoop out poop - and then toss it and put in fresh.
PINE OR PAPER LITTER PELLETS - some of the puppies are litter trained. Paper or Pine/soft wood pellets is what they will use. If you have allergy concerns, and you're allergic to hay, you might want to skip using the Pine. There are also PAPER pellets available to use. The pro to pine/softwood is they easily transfer the smell of outdoor grass for outdoor potty training. The con is some don't like the dust and some are allergic to it. Forget what you traditionally think about litter training. I used to be against it, thinking then the pups have to learn outside and it would be harder. But it is not. Puppies can potty every 10 minutes (feel like it anyway). Are you going to run your puppy out that often? They are a dream come true - especially for apartment dwellers or those that are being really careful and keeping their puppy off the sidewalks for the first month or so. This will also help you potty train outside - take the box outside when you're ready, or a pile of pellets. -- We use a 28qt 'under bed storage' that is about 5 1/2" tall - don't get one too tall or little pupper can't jump into it. Let them pee in it for a couple of days, and scoop out poop - and then toss it and put in fresh.
Chewy.com also has a litter called Second Nature dog litter that is pretty good - it is low dust tracking. Also a Top Paw Tray with mesh is sold at Petsmart (dog potty tray) is one that our trainer, Joell, likes.
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PAPER
The litter pan is just an under the bed plastic thing, about 4" in height. You should look around for good pricing as this item on Amazon keeps changing. Or you can buy a litter box made for dogs. The below is the kind we use!
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UPDATE ON 8/2/22: we learned the company is no longer making this - we will use another brand once ours runs out.
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Wee Wee Pads - depending on how far potty trained your puppy is, you may or may not need this. Most likely, you will - any puppy under 3 months old probably needs more potty training and some months longer. Some of our puppies are LITTER trained and not used to potty pads. Some puppies love to shred potty pads as a game. But others, these work well.
Indoor Dog Potty Tray - owners, especially those in urban areas, have told us that these trays are great for training and also emergencies. You can also put the Wee Wee Pads in them so that the puppy doesn't chew up/play with the wee wee pad - which they love to do! We have used this with the puppies until a certain age so they know what a potty tray is for. But, sometimes poop is a little hard to clean off of it - if it gets mushed. Personally, I'd do the litter before this, but if you are worried about severe allergies, then this type of pan/tray over the litter.
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A lot of people are doing the "faux grass" types for potty training. I think it will work fine for one puppy, but when I tried it, it was with a litter and they thought it was a fun game to shred, just like they do potty pads when together. Nothing like a good game of tug of war or tearing up.
Potty training bell to hang on your door - take your puppy's paw and tap it on the bells every time you go out - very quickly, your puppy will understand to tap the bells to let you know he has to go out. Be careful though - the puppy might start dinging the bell just for the fun of it. It's a good way to get started!
A water travel setup for your pooch - love this!
We love to hike, so we take these bowls for the dogs and they are hardly any added weight or inconvenience to bring along.
If you live in NYC where the sidewalks are roasting in the summer and full of burning salt in the winter (very bad on dog paws), you will want to buy boots. You are probably best off going to a pet store and figuring out the sizing there.
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While we like to use the Kongs to put the puppy kibble food in, so the pups have something to do, to "hunt" for their food - you might always want to get food bowls. There is some science that says elevated bowls are best and another set of science that says they are not. Buy what you like.... or no bowls at all and just spread the kibble around their pen and crate! Having food in their area will help with potty training as they don't like to potty where they eat. We prefer stainless steel bowls - not plastic or rubber, and not porcelain (some dogs are allergic to rubber and some pups will break porcelain playing). Stainless steel is the easiest to sanitize!
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It is NYS Ag law, for us, that we keep our food in closed bins - we don't open a bag and leave it that way - this keeps critters out and the food fresher! Here are several options. Pick one that is at least 30lb food bin because most dog food bags that you will buy will be around 18 to 42 lbs. In addition to the dog food kibble being in the bin, I put the opened bags of treats in the bin as well!
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This is what we use to take along on walks and outdoors to "treat" reward the pups. It's a great pouch and perfect for training and carrying extras, without being too bulky.
Dry or sun burnt noses will appreciate this Snout Soother. It is all natural ingredients and oils, and edible!
I have this bone dog pool in White. Your dog will be the cool kid on the block with one of these! (but, it will hurt your piggy bank!) I suggest the Blue because the white I have is so dirty looking after just one jump in it. It is super thick and durable and seems impossible to crack or puncture (I leave it outside propped against a shed during the winter - no wearing yet!). Definitely pricey for a dog pool, but it is a conversation starter for sure. You can also get a kiddie one from Target for $15 :)
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UPDATE: Spring '19, they no longer sell the hardy bone shaped pools, but they still sell the paw print pools....
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This is my bone pool - love it but I'm a little embarrassed at what I paid for it ;-) --- with that said, it is so sturdy, thick, that I'll use it forever and pass it to my heirs.
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Here is a reasonable pool - you don't want to buy any of the inflatable ones! The Target ones are a bit shallow.
I don't check these page daily for price changes - so feel free to shop around!
I don't check these page daily for price changes - so feel free to shop around!
Puppy GIFTS
I absolutely LOVE these! They are great gifts and so comfy, and the puppies love them too! I have several pairs! Cute for Instagram too, with a real puppy sleeping in between ;-)
I mean, really, the best place to shop for custom Doodle gifts is on Etsy! Some really cute stores there!
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